Lighting is the cheapest change that alters how a boat feels, and one of the most commonly done badly. Fixtures not rated for the environment corrode within a season, cheap drivers flicker, and underwater lights fitted without proper sealing become a leak rather than a feature.
We coordinate lighting work through specialists we use regularly. They carry out and stand behind their own work.
What we do
Inside, that means full spectrum color changing systems, dimmable zones and courtesy lighting that makes a boat usable after dark without being harsh, controlled as sensible zones and scenes rather than through five different switches nobody can remember.
On deck the priority is different. Steps, side decks and the cockpit want to be lit so people can move safely at night, which matters more than any color changing feature. Navigation lighting sits alongside it and is not negotiable: correct fixtures, correct positions, working. A light that is out is a citation and a safety issue, and it turns up on surveys.
Underwater lighting we fit through hull or surface mount, correctly sealed and correctly powered. Done properly it is spectacular. Done badly it is a hole in the boat.
What you would notice first
Flickering when another system starts. Color zones drifting out of sync. Corrosion around a fixture bezel. An underwater light that has gone dim or dark. Condensation inside a lens.
Common questions
Can lighting be added without major work?
Interior and accent lighting usually, yes. Underwater lighting is a haul out job if it is through hull.
Why do my lights flicker?
Almost always a power or driver issue rather than the fixture. It is worth diagnosing before replacing anything.
Will underwater lights drain my batteries?
Modern LED units are efficient, but it depends on your bank and how long they run. We would look at the charging picture alongside the install.
